Poznań miscellanea

This rather ratty collection of images reflects perfectly the unfocused rambling in search of who knows what that this visit to Poznań became.

Notes

The poem by Szymborska was one of a series of quotes from Polish writers on walls around Poznań – the only one I saw. It’s not the whole poem.

Nie myśl means no thought.

If you’re interested in what else Poznań offers you can follow these links to my forgotten pleasures. I was a lot more energetic in 2014 and 2015!

https://warsaw2015.wordpress.com/2015/06/01/two-churches-and-a-grotto/

https://warsaw2015.wordpress.com/2015/05/31/gallery-of-poznan-details/

https://warsaw2015.wordpress.com/2015/05/31/poznan-fountains/

https://warsaw2015.wordpress.com/2015/05/31/poznan-museums/

https://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/08/09/a-gallery-of-poznan-doors-and-windows/

https://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/08/09/poznan-bricks/

https://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/08/09/museum-of-the-history-of-the-city-of-poznan/

https://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/08/09/a-walk-around-poznans-stary-rynek/

Palm House

The Palm House was one of the few places in Poznań I decided to visit that I hadn’t, on investigation, already visited before. It took me a long time of map rotating and muttering and cursing to find the tram to take me there. I gave up on Google when, earlier, it took me the wrong way in search of the Croissant Museum. As always being lost gave me a few treats, not least being the discovery that Tram 8 is the tourist tram: next time I’ll hop-on-hop-off for my explorations

Enough preliminaries.

The Palm House is in Wilson Park. The Poles have a soft spot for Woodrow Wilson. Point 13 of his Fourteen Points developed to shape the peace process after WW1 spoke of the need to establish an independent Polish state, “which should include the territories inhabited by indisputably Polish population, which should be assured a free and secure access to the sea and whose political and economic independence and territorial integrity should be guaranteed by international covenant.” A fat lot of good this declaration was when Hitler appeared on the scene.

The park itself was a pleasure to walk through: fountains, statues, flowers and a rather clumsy waterfall. A young woman was doing energetic exercises on one of the paths, and another one bent over carefully and left a sandwich for a man sleeping on a bench.

The Palm House was huge, impossible to miss.

inside, trunks of vines and palms. Leaves. Waterlilies. Fish. Pitcher plants. Cactuses.

And orchids. Thereby hangs a sorry tale. Somehow my orchid photos didn’t download from the card and I deleted them.

Coda

I got lost in the Palm House and had to seek help at the cafe to get out. Not quite the end of a not-so-competent day. I suddenly realised my train booking was for 5.30 am: I’d forgotten the Polish habit of using the 24-hour clock.

Museum

My intentions for Poznań sightseeing were well and truly derailed by four things: rain, an unexplained expenditure on my MasterCard, inertia, and the discovery that I’d already visited three of the places on my list on previous visits.

However the ethnographic museum was uncharted territory and close by, the card was sorted, and the rain paused.

The museum is housed in a 19th century building which was once one of Europe’s greatest Masonic lodges. As I think I’ve mentioned before one of the pleasures of Polish museums is that they’re often housed in splendid buildings. This one’s a bit the worse for wear now, as is the fountain in front of it.

Inside, it’s cavernous and empty. On the walls in the first room are lonely photos of women in regional costume and one glass case of mannequins. I spend quite a bit of time circling it, admiring the hand embroidery on the aprons, scarves, headgear and neck ruffs, and calculating the woman-hours involved. I have a trunk full of embroidery done by my aunts: my children certainly won’t be inheriting such a trunk from me. This kind of meticulous handiwork has faded into the past.

The next room contains a collection of religious wooden figures, some reaching up to the first floor, carved out of tree trunks. From a photograph it seems (there was no English to help me) that they were shrines on site in forests.

Up the elegant staircase, there was another sparse room with a few items in a glass case: weaving, lace and things woven for church ritual.

This led into another room where more trouble had been taken with display. In a range of glass cases were small wooden statues of the Saints, Mary and unidentified figures. They had been lovingly carved and painted – there were only traces of the paint on many of them – often by unknown artists. I love the idea of rural craftsmen whittling away over winter to create something to satisfy their soul and their artistry. It was the same pleasure I felt at the beehive museum in Slovenia.

St Anthony and the Pieta were popular subjects and there were a number of women, both saintly and apparently domestic.

Interspersed among the carvings were woven fabrics, quite large, hanging on the walls.

I emerged well-pleased with a glimpse of skills belonging to a more leisurely world.

From the train

Intentions create themselves: the three-and-a-half hour train journey between Warsaw and Poznań deconstruct into silhouette and line, becoming what Cathy at wanderessence so aptly called “intentional noticing”.

I’m always surprised by the flatness of the Polish landscape on this route. It sometimes gives the completely horizontal Hay Plain in western NSW a run for its money, and provides the perfect venue for silhouettes to pose against a dull morning sky.

The delicate tracery of cranes. Towering, tapering brick cylinders and chimneys. Apartment buildings emerging, rectangular prisms, from the horizon. Birds in flight, some flapping energetically, others merely coasting. Electricity towers, arms open to embrace the wires connecting them. Frameworks of buildings, windows to the sky. Black shapes of untidy nests in bare trees. A thin red and white striped tower with a narrow ladder crawling up its side. A willow tree on a raised island in a ploughed field. Smoke coiling up from a backyard fire. Brick turrets, square and conical. Trees outlined from the ground up by mist. The red-tipped arms of turning windmills: a flock of them pacing the landscape. Neat silo cylinders, concrete and silver, arched concrete bridges, piles of containers. Briefly, a low line of hills. A procession of thin trees. A big oblong truck against the clouds.

Always churches, claiming the highest point in any town – a grand brick church, main spire green, flanked by two smaller spires; a low gracefully squat church with one humble beautifully proportioned spire; an onion dome above a grove of trees

However, it’s not only silhouettes I notice. The greening fields and farming activity of spring draw my attention to line.

Furrows, freshly ploughed; plantings a few inches high separated by a narrow, shallow trench of earth; irrigation channels; rows of fruit trees; the straight trunks of plantation trees; the neat lines of hedges; the tidy pyramids of round hay bales; the straight edges of an oblong dam; cows grazing along a waterway; an avenue of tees leading to a farmhouse. Cars, and once a man a woman and a dog, waiting at a crossing; the gravestones in a town cemetery; palettes piled in a yard; a yellow house with orange diamonds; men rolling hay bales and a man a woman and a wheelbarrow in alignment.

I’m going to Poznań to visit a friend who lives in a village on the outskirts. The transition to bus 1 is simple, just outside the railway station. I miss the bus 2 connection, and the next one doesn’t come for two hours. I find two helpful women in the nearby garage, one who knows buses and only speaks Polish and one who doesn’t know buses but speaks English. Between them they direct me to another bus to Anna’s village. But nothing phases me these days. When I see a taxi, I hail it and give the driver double the fare in sheer gratitude when he deposits me in exactly the right place.

My reward? A lovely few hours with Anna and ten-month-old Hannah, who grins at me immediately and giggles inexhaustibly at a game of “Boo.” I’m glad. By the time I see her again I’ll be incomprehensible.

The journey back to Poznań is straightforward, as is the entrance to my apartment despite two codes and a key. I climb the grand staircase grinning still. The taxi driver spotted my address card when I was fumbling around looking for it, played dance music to which he gyrated, grabbed my knee, and said “I love you, I love you, I love you” as I got out of the cab. I did not tip him.